For a while, we had two spices on our wish list: chili and sumac. There's high demand for pul biber (chili), and anyone who has ever cooked from an Ottolenghi book knows that sumac is an essential pantry item.
These spices are both widely used in Turkish cuisine, so we knew we had to start our search there. We connected with Karsu, a singer and TV chef on 24Kitchen, and author of Karsu’s Kitchen (which was the best-selling cookbook of 2023!).
Collaboration with Karsu
Karsu is named after the village of Karsuköyü in Hatay. Around the time Karsu released her cookbook, a severe earthquake struck this region. Hatay was one of the areas most heavily affected by this disaster. Karsu lost many family members living in the area due to the earthquake, and the remaining residents are still struggling with its consequences. Therefore, she founded the Karsu Foundation. The Karsu Foundation helps those affected in various ways to rebuild their lives there. The proceeds from the pre-sale of her cookbook also went to the victims of the disaster.
Hatay's cuisine is listed on the UNESCO list of the world's best gastronomic regions. Karsu has included many dishes specific to Hatay in her cookbook, and pul biber is used in almost every dish. Tip: On YouTube, you can find many fun cooking videos by Karsu!
Farmer Hakan's Pul Biber
One of Hatay's residents is farmer Hakan. He also lost everything but resumed his life through the existence he knew so well from the past: farming. His buildings were destroyed, but he still had his land. And the soil in Hatay is incredibly fertile.
It won't surprise you that there are several farmers in the area who grow peppers, but unfortunately, they generally do not do so sustainably. To increase yields, many pesticides and chemicals are used. Due to competition from countries like China, the average market price is very low, and farmers from other parts of the world have to contend with this.
Hakan doesn't participate in that. "I eat from this land. My family, friends, and everyone who buys the product also eat from this land. Therefore, it is important for me to produce a healthy product. I also love the soil and want it to last for generations. So, I don't contribute to the degradation of nature. You can already see how much more life there is on this land than on the land nearby where they spray with poison."
Currently, Hakan is in the process of applying for organic certification. A slow and costly process, but important for being able to market the chili at the right value. Even without organic certification, we want to offer Hakan the market he deserves. His product has been tested in a laboratory.
This way, we can pay him a fair price so he can rebuild his business after the earthquake. In this way, Hakan serves as an example for surrounding farmers to show that sustainable work is economically viable.
Wild-picked sumac
The second spice we buy from Hakan is sumac. He picks it in the wild, in the rocky surroundings of his land, where it grows abundantly naturally.
Sumac must be picked during the hottest days of the year because the berries contain little moisture then. This way, the seeds can be easily separated from the velvety shell, which can be ground into powder.
So much sumac is consumed in Turkey that they often import it from countries in Africa, where the cost price is lower. In Turkey, it is difficult to find a market where you can sell high-quality sumac at a good price, but we are happy to offer Hakan the right price for his product.
His sumac is 100% pure and natural, making it very intense in aroma, color, and flavor. Hakan's sumac can be used as a substitute for lemon or lime; it is quite sour but also fresh and fruity. A perfect spice to season your dishes at the last moment. Not only the taste, but also the appearance of this powder truly adds something to your plate.
